Greenwich: Royal Palace (77 Knollwood Road)
Ok, Royal Palace isn’t actually in Greenwich- but miraculously through Uber Eats, you can have it delivered to Greenwich from White Plains. When I first moved to Greenwich, I admittedly was underwhelmed with the Indian food offerings. Coming from twelve years in NYC, there is undeniably a less authentic and robust offering of ethnic food in our Connecticut suburb. The flavors are tamed down for the crowd. This is why the discovery of Royal Palace and its ability to have it dropped on our front doorstep in mid-country seemed like a win. The flavor and composition of their dishes is much more akin to what you would find in Curry Hill or better yet in Jackson Heights. Whereas Chicken Tikka Masala is generally a beginners dish, theirs is full of flavor and spices- not just a flat tomato and cream sauce. Their lemon rice is also excellent, with fresh curry leaves and mustard seeds adding depth. A telltale sign of their authenticity is the way they serve lemon, onion and chili on the side- with the delicious spice powder chaat masala sprinkled on top. I first learned how to eat authentic Indian food from my office deskmate at Merrill Lynch, a first generation Indian immigrant, who included me in their family Diwali celebrations and took me out in New York to eat curries and dosas with her circle of Indian friends. The flavor quality from Royal Palace reminds me much more of my legitimate experiences dining with them in Jersey City and New York than any other Indian options I have found locally.
New York: Musaafer
Unfortunately I found Musaafer to be less of a gem. The setting is beautiful, you’re meant to feel as if you’ve been to transported to the Taj Mahal- which you do, but IRL the space is less grandiose than the instagram portrayal (shocker). I was impressed with the restaurant’s background given by the server, each of the chefs is sent on a 100 day journey through all of the Indian regions to train before working at Musaafer. However, I didn’t find any of the dishes to truly stand out. Expectations were high as this restaurant has been very hyped on social media and the reservations are elusive. The original location is in Houston, which tracks given the larger than life decor- everything’s bigger in Texas, right? We tried the Chena Dahi Vada Chaat (milk dumplings), Coriander Shrimp, Chaanp Lamb Chops, Butter Chicken Experience (which is two preparations, one traditionally and another in tomatillos), Malwani Fish Curry and Rasmalai. Of everything we tried, I would say the Vada Chaat was the standout with more flavor complexity; but given the significant price tag, I don’t think it would be enough to bring me back.
Home: Recipe for Coconut Milk Fish Curry
Back to my original disenchantment with ethnic food in the suburbs. When I moved to Greenwich during my first maternity leave, I found myself lacking for food options and with a lot more time on my hands. My solution, make the dishes at home that I wasn’t finding in restaurants. This recipe comes from an Indian cookbook my mom gifted me and led me to an awesome food experience, shopping at Patel Brothers- the Indian food market in Norwalk. Every spice, rice, lentil and pepper can be found in this Costco sized food shop. Specifically, and importantly to the outcome of this dish, are the fresh curry leaves- which are what brought me to Patel Brothers. The other ingredients can be found at most local grocery stores. I love this dish because it’s very light and flavorful- and it is also gluten and dairy free, so works for guests with dietary restrictions. There is also some wiggle room to add in other veggies to the coconut milk stew depending on family preferences. I like to throw in a handful of spinach at the end to add a little more nutrients and fiber, especially on a weeknight when we’re trying to eat a bit healthier.
Coconut Fish Curry (Fish Moilee) by Meera Sodhi
- 5 cm ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
- 4 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped
- 1 fresh green chilli, roughly chopped (de-seeded if you prefer less heat)
- salt
- 3 tbsp coconut or rapeseed oil
- 20 fresh curry leaves (optional)
- 2 medium onions, thinly sliced
- 2 big ripe tomatoes, quartered
- 3/4 tsp ground turmeric
- 1/2 tsp chilli powder
- 300ml coconut milk
- 4 fillets (150 – 180g each) of firm white fish such as hake, pollack, haddock or cod, skinned
- 1 lime, quartered
Put the ginger, garlic and green chili in a pestle and mortar, along with a pinch of salt, and bash to a paste.
Put the oil into a wide-bottomed, lidded frying pan on a medium heat. When it’s hot, add the curry leaves if you are using them, followed by the onions, and stir every now and then for 8 to 10 minutes, until the onions are pale gold. Add the ginger, garlic and chilli paste and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes, 1½ teaspoons of salt, the turmeric and the chilli powder. Put the lid on the pan and cook for a couple of minutes.
Meanwhile, dilute the coconut milk with 100ml of water and add to the pan. When the milk starts to bubble, add the fish fillets, turn the heat down a little, cover with the lid and cook for approximately 5 to 7 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.
Serve with a big squeeze of lime and basmati rice.
As my friends and family know, Indian is one of my absolute favorite cuisines. Although some find it a less accessible fare, I hope everyone has a chance to enjoy the dynamic flavors that are so unique to the foods that this region has to offer.
Written by Melissa Nisenson
